Back Field In Motion 1991 Jeep
One of the great things about owning a truck camper is the ability to tow things like boats, trailers, and Jeeps. With several trips planned for the winter and spring, getting our 2004 Jeep Wrangler rigged for towing was a high priority for us. These preparations included the installation of electrical wiring for the Jeep’s tail lights, purchasing a Class III adjustable tow bar, mounting the tow bar brackets and safety hooks to the Jeep’s OEM front bumper, and purchasing an 18-inch-long hitch box extension for my Ford F-250.After researching this topic, I decided to tow the Jeep flat or “four down.” It wasn’t a hard decision, actually. The Jeep Wrangler is built to be towed four down and is one of the few vehicles built to be able to do this (I considered buying a small trailer to tow the Jeep, but I didn’t want to deal with the additional tongue weight as I’m 200 pounds over my GVWR already with a fully loaded truck camper). A tow bar is the main piece of hardware that you need to tow four down. After looking at numerous tow bars, I decided to buy a simple. For around $110.
Tom Arnold costars as the school's vice-principal, who puts his standing in town on the line when he falls in love with Roseanne. Backfield in Motion was originally telecast November 13, 1991.
I could’ve spent $700 for a fancy Blue Ox, but why? My Reese tow bar is rated to tow 5,000 pounds, which is more than stout enough to tow my 3,450 pound TJ.1. Tow BarInstalling the tow bar brackets on my Jeep’s OEM bumper was pretty simple. First, the bumper had to be unbolted from the Jeep using a T-55 torx fitting. Before installing the brackets you’ll first need to remove the two bumper pads from the bumper (if you’re lucky, like me, you’ll be able to use the existing bumper pad holes for the tow bar brackets). The installation instructions state that the tow bar brackets should be mounted between 24 and 41 inches apart on the bumper and mine are centered about 35 inches apart–perfect! Some TJ owners question the strength of the 1/8 inch thick bumper and its ability to support bolted tow brackets and withstand the forces that will be exerted against them.
That’s a valid question and one I had, too. No, the bumper metal isn’t very stout, but if you reinforce the backside of the bumper with support plates, such as the ones that were included in my tow bar kit, you’ll be fine. Many TJ owners who have gone this route over the years have towed for thousands of miles with zero problems. Close up of an installed tow bar bracket.Safety ChainsHaving just a tow bar isn’t enough when flat towing–safety chains are also needed as an emergency backup in the event that the tow bar or hitch fails while in-motion. In order to use safety chains, I needed two attachment points on the Jeep. These can either be tow hooks or D-rings.
Unfortunately, my Jeep had neither, so I had to find something that was suitable that bolted to the Jeep’s frame. Fortunately, a pair of Curt tow hooks can be purchased for $7.99 at Harbor Freight that mount directly to the top of the bumper (see pic below).
Rated for 10,000 pounds these hooks are pretty beefy and also include a retainer clip. You can also purchase on Amazon.com. In addition to towing, these hooks can also be used for recovery in the event that you ever get stuck while off-roading.
Getting stuck is something that happens to every Jeeper, eventually, so having a good set of tow hooks provides extra peace of mind. Tow bar and safety chains hooked up.Towing LightsYou can go two ways to meet this legal requirement: buy a set of removable tail lights–the quickest and cheapest option–or permanently tap into the Jeep’s tail light wiring using a hard-wire diode kit. I chose to go with the latter as I wanted a more permanent, “hidden” solution. What’s the purpose of the diodes? They prevent the truck’s electrical impulses from being back-fed and causing damage to the Jeep’s electrical components. I do have one recommendation when hard-wiring: make sure that the wire run through the Jeep’s engine compartment is protected with flex tubing as this area can get pretty hot during vehicle operation.
I should also point out that the common four-wire system is used for towing lights. As for the length of my umbilical (the cord that connects the Jeep to the truck), mine is 80 inches long and is protected with flex tubing wrapped in insulating tape. Or similar braking system for my Jeep. No doubt, a few will question this decision. But my F-250 has a towing capacity of 12,400 pounds and is equipped with beefy, superduty brakes and a transmission braking system that is second to none. Most of my towing will occur here in the desert Southwest where the terrain is relatively flat, so I feel pretty good going this route (I’ve been able to confirm this decision on a couple trips already. Most of the time I didn’t even know the Jeep was behind me and this included during quick stops).Hitch Box ExtensionThis piece of towing hardware isn’t needed in all cases, but it was for me as I usually tow with a truck camper which extends two feet beyond the rear bumper.
Back Field In Motion 1991 Jeep Cherokee
I decided on an. With both the hitch and extension installed, the total length from the rear bumper to the hitch ball is 26 inches. Along with the tow bar’s length of 41 inches, this provides me with the required amount of clearance between the Jeep and camper even on sharp turns. Here are a couple tips when choosing your hitch box extension and hitch. First, if you need an extension with a length greater than 40 inches, you’ll want to make sure that the extension has support chains to prevent side-to-side movement (this may require that a special plate be welded to the extension to accomplish this). For the hitch itself, you’ll want to make sure that the hitch ball is the correct size and that the shank is large enough to support the weight of your Jeep.
You’ll also want to ensure that your tow bar is fairly level when hitched up, especially if a supplemental braking system isn’t being used. Doing so will improve handling and stopping. Close-up view of the Jeep Wrangler flat tow hitch set-up.Jeep Wrangler Flat TowingThe Jeep Wrangler is one of the few vehicles built specifically to be flat towed and it does terrific in that role. Flat towing a TJ Jeep Wrangler is fairly simple, but it’s critical that you have everything set up properly before you roll. Note that the transfer case must be shifted into Neutral (N) and that the transmission MUST be placed in gear (I like to place mine in second gear) so that the transmission can be lubricated while the Jeep is being towed (your transmission will burn up if you don’t). According to the owner’s manual, here are the steps for flat towing a TJ Jeep Wrangler:.
Depress the brake pedal. Depress the clutch pedal. Shift the transfer case into N (Neutral). Start engine. Place manual transmission into gear (second or third gear are the most popular.
Don’t make the mistake of putting it into Neutral as this will prevent the transmission from being lubricated and it will burn up while being towed.) For automatics, place the transmission into park (P). Release brake pedal to ensure no movement.
Shut engine off and place the ignition key into the unlocked OFF position (this allows the steering wheel to turn while being towed). Apply parking brake. Attach Jeep to tow vehicle. Release parking brakeNote: Tow bars have no speed limitations. They can be used at any speed (but are subject to local highway speed towing laws, of course). For others that are considering a tail light solution, I highly recommend not touching the Jeeps wiring or harnesses to install diodes.The tow lights that are separate are a better solution if you spend a few minutes to build in some plugs. I cut the lights at the back and install a small trailer plug so the harness is short at the back.
The plug wires run through the vehicle and terminate at another plug up front that accepts a conventional trailer plug from the tow rig.The reason for that recommendation is how many factory harnesses I've had to try and repair due to back feed issues, wires cut in the wrong place and general wiring dumbassery.Note I didn't say you would be wrong for not taking my recommendation, just that I highly recommend leaving the factory harness intact. Nice write up. I bought mine knowing I would be flat towing it. All the way to Idaho and back without issue. And once out of Kalifornia we were motoring as fast as 80 (gotta love other states ), no problem. I use the separate towing lights from HF so I didn't have to tap into any wiring. The only thing about your set up that I disagree with is the safety cables to those hooks.
Back Field In Motion 1991 Jeeps
Only because I have seen those cast hooks break, makes me nervous about their use in that particular environment. I like to go right to the frame for safety chains.
Failure Date: While driving on the highway, a loud knocking sound began to come from my engine compartment. As I slowed to exit (at the next interchange) the 3. 8l v6 engine had a bearing seize and threw a rod out the bottom of the engine block. From the research that I have done this is not an isolated incident for Chrysler. There have been many reports of this engine failing even with impeccable maintenance. I received no indications or warnings prior to the engine blowing.
Just as I slowed down the oil pressure indicator light illuminated but at that point it was too late. Failure Date: I started to hear a knocking noise for 3-5 seconds on a cold start. It did not do this on any sequential starts for that day. Took it to the dealer, who changed oil filter and oil. Still made sound on receiving vehicle.
Took in again and dealer replaced the lifters. Still made noise upon receipt. Took in for a third time, they are now saying it is a normal noise, even though it never made it before. Jeep specialists say that this is a normal noise as well. After researching on-line, I have found a large amount of information leading to a malfunctioning cylinder head on the exact make and model of my Jeep engine.
There have been thousands replaced, but for some reason this was not even considered for my vehicle.See. Failure Date: -the contact owns a 2008 Jeep Wrangler 2-dr 4x4. While driving approximately 55 mph a banging sound was coming from the engine, followed by a decrease in the engine power. The vehicle continued in operation to the residence, and upon inspecting the vehicle there was no oil in the engine. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer where the technician informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired.
The failure and current mileages were 40,000.See. Failure Date: I bought the Jeep new in February/March of 2007. In December 2009, at approximately 45k miles, I heard a loud knocking noise that sounded like it was coming from the bottom end of the engine.
Took the Jeep to my regular oil change center and they confirmed the knocking sound. I then took the Jeep to local dealer who informed me that it was spun bearings and there was metal shavings in the oil pan. They put in a new motor (Chrysler offered some assistance after much complaining and arguing on my side, but it still cost me $1,500 as it as out of warranty). Now, in August 2012, at a total of 90k miles (approximately 45k on the new motor), the bearings are spun again.
This will be the 3rd motor in this Jeep. I have the receipts from my regular oil change center showing that I have regularly changed the oil. The service department at the dealer says they are not aware of any other ppl having this issue.
However, internet research shows significant numbers of ppl with 2007 Jeep Wranglers that are having spun bearings at around 45k miles. Jeep should be replacing these motors at no cost to the consumer as this appears to be a design defect.
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